Modni dispozitiv: od biopolitike do novih medija

Abstract

Modni dispozitiv od biopolitike do novih medija je kritička studija modnog dispozitiva kao mehanizma moći mode koji oblikuje, konstruiše, disciplinuje, nadzire i proizvodi modna tela, kontroliše i upravlja ponašanjem, gestovima, diskursima, mislima i željama modnih subjekata i reguliše sam život u društvima discipline, kontrole i nadzora od 18. veka do danas. Modni dispozitiv se analizira kao odevni mehanizma mikro/bio/moći mode od discipline, biopolitike do odeće kao novog medija, te kao mehanizma postkolonijalizma, u studijama slučaja kao što su veo i korset u različitim, kako tradicionalnim tako i novomedijskim modnim i umetničkim izvođenjima. Savremeni modni dispozitiv je skup diskurzivnih i nediskurzivnih elemenata – odevnih praksi, modnog diskursa, modnog sistema i novih medija i tehnologija čija je strategijska funkcija da odgovori na hitne potrebe modne industrije i potrošačkog društva u određenoj modnoj sezoni i osigura moć mode. Rad prati evoluciju modnog dispozitiva kao mehanizma moći mode koji zahvaljujući novim tehnologijama postaje sve efikasniji i ekonomičniji, sve zabavniji i neophodniji, a potencijalno i sve opasniji, jer odeća u društvu nadzora, gde je bezbednost iznad zakona, slobode i ljudskih prava, postaje pametna odeća – još jedan novi medij koji ima sva svojstva nadzorno-medicinskog uređaja. Osim toga dizajn se razvija u pravcu biodizajniranja odeće kao živog organizma i digitalnog dizajna koji oblikuje, programira i proizvodi virtuelnu odeću. Modna odeća postaje multimedija koja sjedinjuje dizajn, zabavu, komunikaciju, nauku i briše granice između čoveka i mašine, realnog i virtuelnog, umetnosti i biopolitike, modnog dizajna i novih medija, dizajnera i naučnika/programera, funkcije i estetike, svakodnevnog života i naučne-fantastike, ali i između korseta i vela, Zapada i Istoka, održavajući stabilnom prividnu liniju između slobode, nadzora i kontrole. Mapiranje evolucije modnog dispozitiva – u teorijskim okvirima od biopolitike, novih medija do postkolonijalizma – kao polja uspostavljanja prekomerne biomioći nad telom i životom u društvu nadzora, ima za cilj da dekonstruiše i učini vidljive odnose moći u globalnom modnom sistemu, njihove taktike, tehnologije, strategije i dispozitive, kako bi se norme, diskurzivne i nediskurzivne modne prakse i reprezentacije koje oblikuju, proizvode i regulišu tela dovele u pitanje i osporile i kako bi se tela i odeća aktivirali kao mesta otpora, subverzije, prekida i preokretanja moći u protivmoć, odnosno dispozitiva u kontradispozitiv, pomoću kritičke teorije, umetničke i modne prakse, ali i mehanizama i znanja iste te biomoći.

Fashion Apparatus: From Biopolitics to the New Media is a critical study of fashion apparatus as a mechanism of fashion’s power which shapes, constructs, disciplines, supervises and produces fashionable bodies, controls and manages behavior, gestures, discourses, thoughts, and wishes of fashion’s subjects, and regulates life itself in societies of discipline, control, and surveillance from the 18th century to the present day. Fashion apparatus is analyzed as a dressing mechanism of micro/bio power of fashion, from discipline, and biopolitics to clothes as a new media, and as a postcolonial mechanism, through case studies such as vail and corset, in different traditional, new media, fashion and artistic representations. Contemporary fashion apparatus is a set of discursive and non-discursive elements – clothing practices, fashion discourse, fashion system, and new media and technologies whose strategic function is to respond to the fashion industry’s and consumer culture’s urgent needs in a certain fashion season and secure the power of fashion. Work follows the evolution of fashion apparatus as a mechanism of fashion's power, which is becoming even more efficient and economical, even more fun and necessary, and potentially even more dangerous, thanks to the new technologies. In a surveillance society that places security above the law and the principles of freedom and human rights, clothes become smart clothes, one more new medium that possesses all the properties of a surveillance-medical device. In addition, design is developing in the direction of biodesigning clothing as a living organism and digital design which shapes, programs, and produces virtual clothing. Fashion clothing is becoming multimedia, which blends design, entertainment, communication, and science and erases boundaries between human and machine, real and virtual, art and biopolitics, fashion design and new media, designer and scientist/programmer, function and aesthetics, everyday life and science fiction, but also between corset and vail, West and East, keeping the apparent line between freedom, surveillance, and control stable. Mapping the evolution of fashion apparatus – within the theoretical frameworks from biopolitics, through new media, to postcolonialism – as a means of establishing excessive biopower over body and life in a surveillance society, aims to deconstruct and make visible relationships of power in a global fashion system, tactics, technology, strategy and apparatuses. The study’s goal is to question and challenge norms, discursive and non-discursive fashion practices, and representations that shape, create, and regulate bodies, and to activate those bodies and clothing as places of resistance, subversion, interruption, and reversal of power into counterpower, or rather apparatus into counter- apparatus, using critical theory, artistic and fashion practice, as well as a mechanisms and knowledge of this same biopower.